2009 Champagne Tarlant, Le Triumvirat, Brut NatureThis is a blend of the Tarlants top three lieux dits, which have Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grown on different plots: a combination of chalk, sand and flinty soils. Fermentation is in wood, giving vinous weight and depth to this hedonistic champagne, which captures the solar energy of 2009. 12 years on lees has given immense complexity and the palate is richly fruited, with roasted peach and gold crumbs. But there is freshness and poise here, alongside